Wow, a friend here in Lisbon recently asked if I had stopped writing this blog and I realized it’s been more than six months since the last post! I guess that means we’ve drifted into a life where a lot more falls under the category of the routine of an urban lifestyle in an international capital.
Like our morning metro ride to the Holmes Place Gym near Marques de Pombal where Sarah loves to do her swimming workout, followed by our 2.5 km walk back through Avenida da Liberdade and up the hill to Chiado with full backpacks after grocery or presunto or vinho shopping along the way. Like our taking free Portuguese classes at the Chiado Public Library, and, yes, an occasional nap in the afternoon. Like opening our flat to several groups of family and friends visiting from the US and Europe. Oh yeah, and like our eating lunches or dinners for the second or fifth (or tenth) time at our favorite neighborhood cafes as well as discovering more and more wonderful places to entertain and challenge our palates throughout Lisbon—and achieving a level of culinary enlightenment through our new acquaintance with polvo and Bacalhau à Brás and heavenly mounds of caracóis, those tiny snails available in the warmer months.
Looking back, when we moved here last March, restaurants and cafes and most shops were still closed due to the pandemic, and we could walk through the heart of tourist territory in Chiado and up through Bairro Alto and Principe Real and down through Baixa and the main plazas of the historic parts of the city . . . and see hardly anyone else! We soon loved being a part of the joy of “Reopening Lisbon” as businesses reawakened and served meals, first of all, on outside terraces, and, eventually, inside as they began to recover, and we certainly did our best to support them and thoroughly enjoyed trying new dining experiences.
I guess that means we’re not just visitors—okay, tourists—ourselves anymore, we really, truly, live here. Of course, we have our Residence Cards and our NHR status and our SNS—the national health system—numeros and a hospital and a doctor who has written our prescriptions in the system here, and even our EU Digital Covid Passports showing the boosters we received in here in November, so we are totally official. Yes, we’ll also be paying taxes and we just learned that we can indeed register and vote here. So, indeed, we genuinely live here in Portugal.
People on Facebook often ask what surprises one the most after they move to PT–for good or for not so much. For us, the most striking revelation has been the joy of experiencing so many classical music performances and being surrounded by all the arts. (We also discovered a favorite fado cafe in Bairro Alto where we love introducing visitors to Eduardo and Dina as they sing their hearts out in the traditional music of saudade.) In addition to seeing three operas in concert version and one fully staged–a moving performance of La Boheme–at the Teatro Nacional São Carlos Opera House, another friend introduced us to the Palacio de Queluz, considered to be the Versailles of Portugal, with its extensive gardens and its magnificent 18th century royal architecture. There, we delighted at a recital of Baroque music written by women composers and performed by a quartet of violin, cello, harpsichord, and soprano, in a glittering mirrored salon with seats at appropriate 21st century social distance. We’ve also taken in a concert at the Cultural Center of Belem, where we saw our third different local orchestra delight in a performance of Stravinsky’s Pulcinella. And of course we took a quick jaunt to Madrid and Toledo, Spain, to take in an inspiring performance of variations and improvisations on the 17th century La Folía theme by Jordi Savall on viola da gamba and Xavier Diaz-Latorre on theorbo, in a rainy, breezy semi-outdoor setting in the cloister of the Toledo Cathedral.
Later, the Gulbenkian Orchestra and Chorus entertained music lovers all around the country with its Gulbenkian Itinerante series, presenting concerts in other cities and towns outside Lisbon. We were lucky enough to find one of their events, a choral concert, within easy walking distance at the stunning Igreja São Domingos. Established in 1241, it was the site where royal weddings took place and was a part of the Inquisition process in Portugal. Badly damaged in the earthquake of 1755 and a fire in 1959, the restored church still shows the remaining impact of these tragedies, with charred and damaged columns and a somber, peaceful atmosphere throughout. The acoustics were perfect for the Gulbenkian Chorus of twenty singers who performed a concert on the theme of lux (light) while observing social distance and respectfully wearing masks–yes, wearing masks–while singing beautifully. We were overwhelmed by the last few pieces, including the finale where the choir members picked up crystal glasses and played them as a combined glass harp for the intensely moving “Stars,” by Eriks Esenvalds. We have now signed on for a subscription for twelve concerts at the Gulbenkian for January through May. Cost? About half of a that in a midwestern US city and of course a far tinier fraction of that in NYC or San Francisco—or Paris or London.
Another question people back in the US sometimes ask us is: “Don’t you get lonely?” In fact, Sarah and I now enjoy our most vibrant social life ever. Of course, Sarah is finally retired after letting me be a trailing spouse in India for a few years while she continued to teach, so our schedule is wide open to enjoy every day. We’ve connected with new friends through a women’s group Sarah joined, the International Women in Portugal, and we’ve met others through a mutual love of music, and some other informal “meetup” groups. Each coffee or luncheon or musical event seems to lead to more introductions and more new friends and new dining opportunities . . .
And I finally overcame some hesitation and at last I put my serious camera back to work and started to connect with some of the amazing buskers and artists and tuk tuk guides here in Chiado and the neighboring sections of the historic central neighborhoods of Lisbon. Such lovely smiles!
So, after a year in Lisbon, what’s next? Remember the rainbow over that lovely boulevard in the header photo . . . so how about a move to a more typical Portuguese urban neighborhood? Farewell Chiado and its marvelous history and chic restaurants and delightful buskers and artisans–and its hills and ever increasing tourist count that helps fuel the successful recovery of the Portuguese economy–and welcome to Avenidas Novas in the Saldanha area with it’s wide, flat streets and cobbled walkways and its own iconic restaurants, not to mention the new commute to our many concerts at the Gulbenkian . . . now only about a fifteen minute gentle stroll! And a move from a sizable, furnished apartment to an even larger, unfurnished one in full Portuguese mode: no closets, no air con, and no heat. Right, a completely blank slate!
But, of course, that’s another story, right . . . ?
So glad to hear from you again David and that all is well. Such an exciting adventure for the two of you!!
Thanks Gus! Great to hear from you—-hope all is well with you!
Great to hear you continue to enjoy the many, many joys of living Portugal. We have loved our wintering travels through the Algarve and Madeira. The Azores are left yet explored and, of course, more time in Lisbon and Porto on also part of the future plan.
Thanks Karen. Glad you and Widi are doing well. We loved following your own Portugal explorations and you’ve given us some locations to add to our list. Look forward to connecting on your next visit to Lisbon.
Please share my comment with Sarah, I am one of her Anderson Orff graduates. Living in Kalamazoo. Wonderful to hear about your adventures. Great to see Sarah’s smile again.
I am still teaching 2nd grade rather than art and music, K – 4. do I miss the music? Yes, but it is much easier being in one room instead of prepping paint, managing artwork from 370 kids, prepping instruments for various grade levels, doing concerts and art shows. It’s a bit easier at 63 years of age. We still sing a little, do some art, and creative movement. Every day we play one dramatic or improvisatory game for ten minutes–I call it Social, Emotional Learning time. There is now a new “integrated arts” teacher who teaches from a cart and without the Orff instruments, clay and paint. Hopefully when they expand the school, she’ll have a room for that.
I use my Orff training everyday in a different way with my Gen. Ed. classroom. The kids compose rhythms with words every now and then. Online xylophones let them add a little melody. Yesterday, we attended a Kalamazoo Symphony Youth Concert. Most of the prep was done by our new arts teacher, but I got to introduce the Beethoven. We talked about the emotionality of his music and made “feelings” statues. In the afternoon, we wrote cinquains to send to the conductor.
I am so glad you arre thriving and happy! Wishing you well!
Thanks so much, Betty! I’ve given Sarah your update and she will respond to you now that I approved your comment!
Betty!!!! How wonderful to hear from you! It sounds like you are still inspiring young minds and bodies!! How beautiful. I’m fully retired and it feels so good.
Thanks for reading David’s blog—-we really are having the time of our lives living in Europe. Becoming a global citizen has been so expanding for the heart, mind and soul. Big hugs, my friend!!!
Wonderfully descriptive, esp. of your great loves, music (or culture in general) and food, of course food. When we come, and yes we will, you can take N to the exotic places. I’ll sneak off for the pizzas, Jamon and burgers. 🐙 and 🐌 will never do it for me, despite their local cultural roots on the Iberian peninsula. 😉
Thanks much, Anthony! Just you wait, my friend, and we’ll see. SOOOO many places to choose from and we’ve only scratched the surface. Look forward to a visit from you and Nancy!
So glad you’re back. I’ve missed your interesting blog.
Thanks Susan, I hope to get back into a more regular routine with the blog and our lives here.
Thanks so much David! We are very much looking forward to seeing the two of you in April. #Marvelous
Thanks Tracy. Your visit isn’t too far off and the weather should be delightful then. We’re in the midst of the Sahara sand cloud today so very different from anything previously!
I too was wondering about this. Glad to see it back up. Love the photos!
Congrats and good luck on the new digs–always exciting to set up a new place. And I’m sure a change of neighborhood will bring a new flavor of the city for you guys!
Thanks Ron, it was fun to spend time today with Joanne and Don and their friends to show them around our new neighborhood and then a brief tour through Chiado, even with the lovely Sahara sand cloud enveloping the country! Hope you’re doing well.
Hi Dave,
I was thinking of you (really) the other day, realizing how I missed the Toothpicker, and now here you are! It sounds like Sarah and you are having a wonderful and rich time in Lisbon. Kate an d I are taking a small ship cruise in late October out of Barcelona, which we have never visited, so plan to spend five days there before boarding.
How are your girls?? I am sure you miss them, and they you, Hopefully visits from them or to them are aplenty.
Unlike you, we are “dug in” here in the States. In fact, we are closing next week on a new townhouse (with elevator) in Rockville to be nearer to two of our girls and two grandsons. They are likely to stay in the DC area, so we figured when we grow out of living in a small beach town (Rehoboth) we have a nice place to be closer.
Thanks for the stories and photos, that are great. GIve my best to Sarah.
Best regards,
Mike
Thanks so much, Mike! So great to hear from you as well. We do indeed miss the girls and we chat via video calls regularly of course. So, Barcelona and a cruise in the fall should be wonderful. Be sure to take the fast train up to Figueres to see the Salvador Dali museum as it’s truly unique. And of course there are some fabulous restaurants in Barcelona as well as all the Gaudi venues. And don’t forget that Lisbon is kind of on the way to Barcelona and we’d be delighted to share some of our city’s delights with you and Kate if you feel like a stopover. All best to you and your girls and grandkids!
I travel with you when I read your words! Thank you for letting me tag along.
Thanks so much, MaryAnn! It’s so wonderful to know folks enjoy sharing our adventures!
Hi David,
Wonderful update on your adventures and love the photos. We are not living in our condo full time yet, but we hope to meet you and Sarah soon, perhaps on our next visit to Lisbon. Welcome to Saldanha / Av. Novas! That’s our neighborhood. Is your new apt on Rua Viriato by chance ? The ochre building looks familiar. Our building is right by the Picoas metro on Melo (pink building with the mini preco on ground floor).
Looking forward,
Joyce and Mohammad
Thanks, Joyce and Mohammad! We’re on Avenida Duque de Avila and look forward to meeting you when you return to Lisbon!
Great post David! Such amazing photos (no surprise there) and your recap of some of the performances that you have been to really spurs me to get some on the calendar, now that we are hitting the 1 year mark here as well.
And of course, the no closets, no air con, no heat…..very authentic. We are aiming for the same minimalist experience in the 1880s row house that we are likely moving into in June.
Looking forward to more posts from you!
AND…lastly, you and Sarah sure look fit and healthy despite all of that super yummy food (sobremesas!) that are some of the joys of living in Portugal!
Thanks Julie, can’t wait to see your own new “authentic” digs once you get settled. We love this area and look forward to you guys being a bit closer! BTW, you don’t think we really EAT all that food I photograph . . . okay, okay . . . maybe sometimes!
Greetings David,
I have to say my favorite part is seeing the faces of the buskers, artists and tuk tuks enjoying the spirit of Lisbon! Thanks for the adventure!
Love to you and Sarah,
Mixie and Jeff
Thanks much! It is always wonderful to connect with the real people on the street!
Hi David,
It’s wonderful to read an update on your magical life in Lisbon. We had dreamed of visiting you whenever we could re-try our Europe trip – planned in 2020 for our 50th anniversary, and floating on the horizon since then. Maybe someday… 53rd?
It’s so great to see you doing photography again – your amazing portraits that just reach out and grab me. You have a real talent there. And oh, the music. What a dream that must be. Good luck with the move if and when and wherever….and I hope you both keep loving life there.
I’m deep into a new novel based on our times in Germany – an idea I’ve had for over 20 years and it finally grabbed me by the ear and sat me down to write! It’s going quickly and I’m loving the process of integrating memories and imagination.
Abraços,
Kathy and Peter
Thanks for sharing your lives – and the blue skies – in Lisbon!
How have you both been faring with the language I wonder? John and I are still in Australia. Our travels have been limited, and enriched, by our explorations of the state we live in – Queensland. In fact to celebrate his 60 years on the planet: John Sandman – born 31st August 1962 – I plan to take him ‘out bush’ to stargaze in an observatory in outback Queensland. If you have an image from the Trailing Spouse days .. please share via email as I am putting together a collage of celebration. Your well wishes would be a wonderful addition.
Much love to you and Sarah
Amyxx
So wonderful to hear from you! I’m sure I can find a photo or two of our times together in Chennai and I’ll send them asap! Love and hugs to you both!
David